Unlock now. Hurry - limited time only. Ends in: 2 days. Christmas Wreath-Making. New shoots will soon start to emerge at the base, and are hardy enough to withstand a few late frosts maybe with as little foliage browning. No need to worry it will grow well as soon as normal gardening season starts. Hardy by name and description; hardy by nature. That is it. I have cut back older Fuchsias with a pair of loppers, or pruners, and also rendered a younger shrub to the ground with a hedge trimmer.
Same result; it soon starts to grow and retain the original height but with fresher, more floriferous foliage. Clear up the old branch prunings. Job done! If your new Fuchsia is just a new central stem with few if any side shoots maybe even as a Fuchsia cutting that you have produced prune the stem just above the third or fourth lave joint, but leave all the leaves on the plant below that cut. It will soon send out a pair of side shoots. This is the start of producing your busy, full of flowers, plant.
Now we enter the progressive stage of building a bushy fuchsia plant. Allow the two side shoots to grow to three or four pairs of leaves, then snip them off just above the second leaf joint.
Side shoots will emerge from the joint below your cut, and these should be allowed to grow four or five pairs of leaves with possibly a few flower buds showing at the end tip. No matter cut them off this time at slightly above the third pair of leaves, then repeat the operation but at the fourth pair of leaves next set of shoots. By now you will have the start of a bushy, compact Fuchsia plant that will have a good shape and will be raring to give you a good display of flowers.
Many stems equals many flowers. If you are not too impatient to start seeing flowers, repeat the pruning as above, but at five pairs of leaves. If you want your Fuchsia to be perfection for a particular event wedding, garden party, or flower show, stop all pruning at around 6 to 8 weeks before the event.
This will bring the plant into flower for the desired date. Routine pruning thereafter, is simply removing faded flowers before they are allowed to set their fruits unless you want to make jam!
The setting of seeds and fruits really do take a lot of energy out of the plant at the expense of new growth and flowers. You can adjust this pruning regime to give you the type of plant shape you want bush, pyramid or tower! The same basic principles as above, but taking into account the framework of branches you already have. Start by side-shooting to retain or alter shape, then proceed shortening all the new shoots to around three or four pairs of leaves.
Trailing Fuchsias should also be pruned regularly as per the instructions for the bush fuchsias. Do not be in a hurry to see just a few flowers at the end of two or three branches hanging over the edge of your basket. Trim the ends of all shoots to build a good structure of branches.
The will soon start to droop or trail, providing you with many more flowers than would be the case with just a few long stems. If planted in hanging basket, ensure regular feeding and watering for the food reserves in a confined hanging basket are much less that would be the case in a large pot or in the garden soil.
New or older standard fuchsias bought out of winter dormancy should be treated as above, but of course snipping the shoots at the head of the stem. For the early part of the growing season, you can leave any foliage that appears on the main stem and even new side shoots, for all these will help the plant to generate energy whilst growing.
In this case it is a long distance for the food to travel from roots up to the head. However, dont allow any side shoots to continue once the head is starting to grow well and responding to your initial formation pruning. Established hedges of Fuchsias are normally a dense mass of old twigs and branches.
Traditional hedge trimming is all that is required with maybe a slightly harder trim for the first spring cut. Thereafter, lightly prune as required to ensure a good supply of new growth and flowers.
Fuchsia plants are either classed as shrubs or perennials, and can be fully hardy or tender — and several other classes between, depending upon where you live and how you are going to grow them. Most of the common bedding plant fuchsias are tender or half hardy perennial shrubs - either small bush or trailing types — together with half or full standard Fuchsias. For general use, fuchsias can be split into four separate types — Hardy shrub Fuchsias; half hardy bedding fuchsias; trailing and standard fuchsias.
There are also various classifications as to flower type. This section is for the varied general garden uses for which Fuchsias are normally bought.
All have common flower attributes — with variation — of drooping or pendant tubular flowers, which can be either single, semi-double, fully double or the longer tubular tryphilla group. There are literally hundreds of varieties to choose from — especially with the half hardy perennial bedding types. This does a great disservice to the wide range of colours associated with these plants. The common and botanical name of Fuchsia sometimes gives rise to a variety of misspellings.
Easiest way to remember, is that the plants were first discovered by Leonhart Fuchs, the German botanist and plant collector, to whom we are indebted. A basic requirement for a continuing display is a sunny place — though preferably with some shade from the hottest midday sun. Alternatively an area which has plenty of light, but the hardy shrub fuchsias are happy in full sun or dappled shade. Fuchsia resent being grown in windy, exposed, draughty or heavy shade, and if planted in the garden, a medium soil type is fine — but never waterlogged.
Most of the semi-hardy types of Fuchsia plants make good container plants and are also suited to window boxes — but preferably not on an exposed wall — or one that faces the midday sun.
The popular trailing types of Fuchsias are perfect in outdoor hanging baskets and make superb cascades of long lasting flowers if used beneath pergola beams. The hardy types are often used as hedging plants - particularly in seaside areas.
Once established they can form a dense hedge up to 6ft 1. Walls or good sturdy fence panels or trellis bedecked with assorted Fuchsias is a great way to utilize space — vertical gardening at its most basic and masses of colour for most of the summer.
Trailing Fuchsia baskets and pots can also be grown hanging from the low ranches of light foliaged trees such as Birch, Sorbus and Robinia if placed to the outer perimeter where they will normally get good light and at rhe same time a modicum of dappled shade.
They are amongst the most sought after summer flowering plants for gardens, window boxes, baskets and patio pots and containers. They need minimal attention and care for success; which is not to say that they can be planted and forgotten. Fuchsias are non-demanding garden plants or shrubs which can be grown in garden beds, shrub borders, hedging plants, patio containers in all manner of garden pots and of course their popular use in hanging baskets and window boxes.
Not to be forgotten, is the fact that as well as providing a super flowering display, there are some notable foliage feature fuchsias that are worth growing — variegated, golden or deep bronze foliage form good contrast to the drooping cascade of the brightly coloured flowers. The bedding or half hardy fuchsias which are the mainstay of the fuchsia group should not be planted out in the garden until frosts have finished in late spring.
The same goes if you happen to buy hardy types full of flower in early spring, for these would have been grown in protected conditions in the nursery in order to get them flowering and looking good for the traditional Easter gardening trade. In milder areas some borderline varieties can be left in the garden and simply protected at ground level with a good covering of retentive mulch.
An area that it traditionally wet during the winter would not be suitable so lifting and storing for the winter would be the best option. Hardy Shrub Fuchsias These are suitable for growing in the garden all year round — though deciduous and lying dormant for the winter.
Normally cut to ground level each spring, they will soon re-form a shrub which is several feet high and full of flower from midsummer onwards; absolutely excelling in the later months and through until autumn frosts. Half Hardy Bush or Bedding Fuchsia As the name suggests, this group are small woody stemmed plants which are sold in garden centers during spring and early summer — or can be bought online — for use in bedding plant schemes in the garden or more popularly as container plants for the patio or window ledges.
They are not reliably hardy so can either be discarded at the end of summer, propagated for use the following year or over-wintered in frost free conditions — ready to start life anew the following spring. Trailing or Hanging Fuchsias These are much the same as the bedding or bush varieties with the added attraction of a loose habit of growth ranging from drooping branches to fully pendant weeping steams that — when planted in a hanging basket — can from a drooping cascade of colourful flowers down from the basket — as much as 2ft 60cm.
They can also be planted quite effectively in pots atop a pedestal, though need to be firmly anchored to cater for the sheer weight of flowers — especially in a sudden breeze!
Standard Fuchsias These spectacular forms are normally of the bush types above, which have been grown for a year or more at the nursery and trained to grow up one central stem — somewhat akin to a standard rose. They are not hardy, so will require winter cosseting — and if planted in a patio pot will need support and shelter to ensure they stay upright. If they fall over, the heads often suffer considerable damage — though soon re-form their former glory. Snip them away right at ground level with sharp secateurs, taking care not to damage any new shoots which may be emerging.
Then scatter some slow-release fertiliser, give the plant a good water and mulch well. Jump to content. Did you know that hardy fuchsias fare well in the climate of the Pacific Northwest? The following is part of our ongoing series of articles about hardy fuchsias by PowellsWood gardener and consultant Jackie LaVerne.
Click here for the full Fuchsias Archive! While hardy fuchsias are relatively easy to care for, a little extra attention can help them become even more beautiful and healthy plants. Hardy fuchsias can be fertilized with well-composted material, spread around the base of the plant in the spring and in the fall.
You can also use a slow-release fertilizer, but it is not necessary.
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