Raise the press handle and turn the die down another one-eighth to one-quarter of a turn and set the large lock ring. Gently but firmly lower the press handle all the way to the bottom and run the case all the way into the sizer die. This will size the case to the proper dimension and push the fired primer out of the case. Next, raise the press handle. This will lower the case and expand the case mouth on bottle-neck cartridges , correctly setting the case neck diameter to hold the bullet tightly.
After several firings, cases sometimes stretch and become longer than the specified maximum length. These cases must be trimmed to allow for proper chambering and for safety reasons. The trimmer works like a small lathe and can be used to trim most cases up through caliber. Check the reloading manual for maximum case length and trim length. Use a dial or digital caliper to check the exact case length.
Cases that have been trimmed need to also be chamfered and deburred. This will remove any burrs left on the case mouth after trimming and will allow a new bullet to be easily seated into the case. Insert the pointed end of the Deburring Tool into the case to remove burrs and chamfer the case mouth interior. Fit the other end over the case mouth to remove exterior burrs. Because of their design, straight-wall cases need to be expanded in a separate expander die. Install the expander die in the press, place a sized case in the shell holder and run it into the die.
The expander should be adjusted so the case mouth is belled outward just enough to accept the new bullet. To use, first scatter primers onto the grooved surface of the tray. Then, shake the tray horizontally until all of the primers are positioned anvil side up. The Hand Priming Tool seats primers quickly. Insert primer tray into Hand Priming Tool. The proper primer plug adapter size large or small must also be installed.
Many people get into reloading their own ammo because they enjoy it. There is something almost therapeutic about sitting down at your workbench and watching piles of separate components come together to make your own ammunition.
Some people even enjoy reloading the ammo as much or even more than shooting it! You can get started loading your own ammo very easily and cheaply, but to become an expert takes years of experience and practice, and lots of expensive equipment. Whether you are wanting to use the cheapest equipment to make the cheapest ammo possible, or you want to run a full-scale operation making thousands of rounds per hour, there is a reloading press out there to fit your needs and budget.
When you start reloading, you are going to need to purchase your consumable components first. These are the parts of the round that are used up when you fire it. This consists of the primer, powder, and bullet. You will also need some empty cases in the caliber that you are wanting to reload. These can be either brand new cases, or cases that have already been used. If you elect to go with the used case route, be sure and inspect each case for cracks, dents, or other defects before reloading.
Cases in less than ideal condition should be thrown into the trash or a scrap bucket, as they can cause dangerous malfunctions if they fail. Powder can be a tricky subject, as the powder that you will need varies widely depending on your caliber, firearm, bullet weight and barrel length.
It is best to consult a reloading manual to find out which powders are going to be best for the type of cartridge you are wanting to reload. This is very important because the burn rates of different powders have a huge effect on your chamber pressures. Using a fast burning pistol powder in a magnum rifle cartridge could easily cause pressure spikes that may result in a catastrophic failure. The safest thing to do is consult a reloading manual that will give you a range of powder varieties and charge weights for you to try.
Bullets are a slightly easier matter. Often, if your bullet is the correct caliber you will be able to find a load for it. You will need to match your powder charge and bullet weight together to avoid dangerous chamber pressure spikes.
Primers are by far the easiest component to buy. There are only a handful of different primer types, and if you match the primer type to the cartridge you are loading you will be fine. If you are reloading for extreme accuracy, it is best to find a brand of primer that works best and stick with it. Changing up brands of primers can have an effect on accuracy, albeit a small one. Dies are a non-consumable reloading component, but they are caliber specific. You will need one set of dies for each caliber you are wanting to reload.
The dies are responsible for re-forming the fired case back into the correct size, removing the old primer, seating the new bullet into the charged case, and sometimes crimping the bullet into the case as well. Some die sets will also include a case trimmer die which acts as a jig to shorten the case length. Most dies are purchased in a set that includes anywhere between two and four dies, depending on the functions you are wanting to achieve. Your most expensive portion of your reloading supplies is going to be your press, and there are quite a few different options when it comes to presses.
There are many kinds of presses, each with their own unique advantages and price ranges. As a new reloader, it is recommended to start out with a basic single stage press.
There are both cheaper and much more expensive options that will be discussed, but I can speak from experience when I say that a basic single stage press is a good, solid investment and an excellent starting point from which to build your skills.
A single stage press is one of the slowest methods of reloading. This type of press can only perform one operation at a time, and the casing must be removed after every operation. Since the press only holds one die, the die must be changed each time you need to switch operations. When reloading on a single stage press, it is best to perform your operations in batches.
I will typically de-prime and resize all my cases, then tumble them all an optional step to clean your cases then seat the new primers, charge the cases and seat the bullets. This is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process that I typically will spread out over several days. This does allow you to achieve better accuracy with cheaper equipment, as I will individually weigh each powder charge and adjust as necessary to make the load as accurate as possible.
A single stage press is one of the cheaper options when it comes to reloading your own ammo, and is by far the best option for the beginner or low volume shooter. It requires much more involvement by the individual and requires you to focus much more so than a progressive press, and really helps you learn the basics and fundamentals of reloading your own cartridges.
A turret press is similar to the single stage press in that it only performs one operation per pull of the lever. Where it differs is how it holds your dies. A turret press has a rotating cylinder at the top that holds all the dies that you need to load your rounds.
Durability - Our reloaders go the distance. Most carry a lifetime warranty against breakage and wear. Exceptions do apply. Check out our Video Library We recently published a series of video instructions for our products. SPS Safety Glasses. Closeout Items. Berry's Utility Box. I'm not so fussed about reloading the 70mm game shells as they are cheep enough. Looking to load both lead and steel for inland shooting of wildfowl and I tend to go through a lot of shells in a season, the brother and the old man shoot as well so it doesn't take long!
So questions are:. A lot of people suggest an RTO when I'm reading about the 10 bore. Now as I intend to fork out a lot of cartridges in as little a time as possible, once the recipes are good would I be better with the mec? I'm 23 so I will hopefully get a few years use out of it.
Ideally I'm looking to get as good an initial set up as possible so I don't have to rebuy anything for an improvement. If you can spell out items of equipment eg " go for a mec sizemaster " and a rough second hand cost that would be greatly appreciated! PS do you just get an adapter to go from say a mec for the 12 gauge to reload it for the 10? Ie same machine?
Thanks in advance and apologies for the simple questions. I'm certainly not the most clued up about reloading equipment, but i think it may be possible to get mec conversion kits from 10 - Be careful, this reloading game can get expensive, but you can recoup some of the costs, especially on 10 gauge loads. I would get a lee load all for your 12g it will crimp 67mm up to 89mm.
0コメント